Updated write-up and screencaps coming soon - for now,
see exhibit notes from Cherie, below! In the case that write-up/notes
contradict, go with notes.
The olive pea-green underdress (probably silk habotai or maybe
raw silk) has a boat neckline with a v-notch at the center.
The neck is edged in ruching.
The body of the dress is form-fitting, whether by princess
seams or darts we don't know. There seems to be a horizontal
mid-hip seam, but we don't know why.
The long sleeves can be seen peeking through the pink sleeve's
slits at the forearm, and at the hand, where we see it is also
edged in ruching.
The silk jacquard overdress is a deep purple, somehow printed
over with wisps of delicate greenish gold designs. The dress
is open up the front, laced to itself from neck to hip, with
a 1/2 - 1" gap, at least on the exhibit dress form. The
gap seems slimmer on Susan.
As to seaming, we're seeing long darts starting at the bust
point and curving all the way down to the hem. Probably side
seams and back darts or princess seams. No back closure is needed
because of the lacing up the front.
The neck follows the underdress, a boat with a v-notch, only
showing the underdress a bit.
About a two inch "band" at the neck is surrounded
with a metallic gold cord that curves all the way around the
short kimono sleeves. On the sleeves and at the neck are large
swirls of goldish green embroidery.
The pink velvet sleeves seem to attach to the purple overdress.
The velvet looks simply crushed, accounting for the lighting
variations, but, on closer look, the velvet is embossed or stamped
in a light floral pattern.
The pink sleeve ends in a cuff of the purple dress fabric,
edged in cord and embroidered with a green swirl. Pulled through
the buttoned slits (two or three buttons, the slits start from
the elbow down the forearm, and are placed at the underside
of the arm) one can see the green underdress' sleeve pulled
Her purple cape is baglined in yellow, and is set into the
dress at the very tip of the shoulders at the back, below the
neck band it seems.
Susan wears her crown she wore at her coronation (see write-up
here), and a small elongated
pendant at her neck. Her hair is mid-back length, curled in
Cherie's FIDM Exhibit Notes
- The sleeves are split underneath to allow the
green under-dress to show through. It splits at the elbow,
is stitched back together in one place halfway down the arm,
and joined together again at the cuff, so the under-sleeves
shows in two places. The middle of the split is closed with
a stitch only, no decorative bits.
- The bust is shaped with two darts that start at
the bust and run down the entire length of the dress. There
are no seams above where those darts begin.
- The neck "trim" is not an extra piece,
it is the same as the rest of the bodice with a gold braid
sewn around it to mark it off from the rest of the dress.
- The sleeves are NOT attached to the purple fabric.
I theorize that they are attached to the green under-dress
along with the green undersleeves, and that the purple part
is a short-sleeved over-dress that is open at the front, slipped
on over the under-dress and sleeves sort of like a robe, then
laced shut in front.
- The design printed on the purple dress is green,
not gold, the same color as the under-dress.
- The designs are not embroidered. They are either
printed or painted on.
- The green under-dress looked like silk to me,
- The embroidery at the neckline looks more like
- No shoes were displayed, sorry!
- The back of the dress was hidden from view. I
considered tossing my cell phone into the display so I'd have
an excuse to go get it and look, but the guards were pretty
Exhibit (high resolution)
Sketch by Philo