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King Peter the Magnificent


Stars denote info from Cherie's exhibit notes, not available to see in the pictures


Tunic

The tunic fabric is a floral brocade in a burgundy color. Our best shot of the fabric is probably in this image. The neck is round and wide, showing the undershirt's collar.

It has a basic square torso, seamed just below the belt to what seems to be a skirt of pointed box pleats. See this picture - the pleats are opening a bit. The fabric underneath is satin* in a lighter burgundy color, with an emblem of embroidery.

We assume there are about seven to eight box pleats - two center front, two to the side of that, two center back, and two to the side of those, so that two of the pointed brocade panels formed by the pleats are directly at the side. The panel hems are rounded, the underlay hems slightly longer, with a rounded point.

The sleeves are two-part - an upper piece that is puffed, gathered and set in to the arm scye. From below the elbow on, the second part of the sleeve is snug over the forearm, but it also folds quite a bit. The upper part of the sleeve does not appear to be gathered directly into the lower.

The running theory now is that the puff is a separate sleeve. In some images, especially the (albeit blurry) exhibit images, it seems that it is eased at the outer part of the arm, gathered at the inner, into a one-or-two inch band of brocade.

The undersleeve, then, is perhaps stitched at the arm scye. It's slit twice under the forearm, with the white undershirt pulled through. From Cherie's exhibit notes, "The split in the sleeve has tassels on it, at the point where the split starts, where it joins in the middle, and where it ends at the cuff."

Undershirt

We only see this in two places - at the neck, and pulled through the slits at the forearm. Seems to be a lightweight white cotton or linen. The fabric is gathered into the self-lined mandarin collar, and closed up the center front with at least two (probably extends all the way down the torso) gold hooks-and-eyes, or other small form of attachment.

Cloak, Accessories

The cloak is long and full, the main body of the cloak seems to be a rectangle. Probably a woven wool, in a rich purple. The cloak extends at either end and wraps around the neck, pleated three times with two to three inch pleats, set into a seam on the right shoulder. The pleats seem to be are stitched together on the left shoulder, so that the cloak drapes in gentle pleats from shoulder to shoulder, falling down the back on his right, and slightly to the front on his left.

One can almost make out the line of stitching on his left shoulder in this image.

A purple button (probably false) sits on each pleat on the seam at the right shoulder. The buttons have a wide swirl pattern, but are covered in fabric.*

We don't have any extreme detailed images, but there is a line of gold on the edge of the fabric, so either it's edged in a fine delicate gold piping or braid, or perhaps a small zig-zag stitch bordering the edge.

The gold leaf embroidery extends down both sides, probably 18-20 leaf couples from right shoulder, across, and to the ground. The edges of the cloak itself are scalloped.

The gold cloak lining is woven.* We can see the center back seam in some of the "leaping" images.

He wears knee-high boots and purple hose, and on his head his gold crown, also worn with his coronation outfit. His brown belt is edged in gold. See Cherie's sketch of the belt buckle here.

Cherie's FIDM Exhibit Notes

  • The sleeves are split like Susan's dress with the white undershirt showing through.
  • The buttons on the cloak are decorated with a swirl pattern, similar to this. The center circle is smaller and is not a rhinestone. The swirls are wider. They appeared to be made of purple fabric.
  • The split in the sleeve has tassels on it, at the point where the split starts, where it joins in the middle, and where it ends at the cuff.
  • The cloak is lined in a gold color. The lining is woven. The cloak is pleated at the shoulder, then sewn together into a seam. There are buttons at the pleats.
  • The design on the tunic is a rose/floral brocade pattern. The white collar is not a separate piece, it belongs to the undershirt which shows at the sleeves. The under-pleats are made of a different fabric from the rest of the tunic. They are satin and embroidered with a gold design that I sketched [badly] here. There may be a clasp holding the collar together at the top. I was too short to see clearly, but I'm pretty sure there was something there.

Sketches by Cherie:

 

Film Screenshots

Clips, Misc.

Exhibit

Philo's Early Sketch

 



 

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