tunic fabric is a floral brocade in a burgundy color. Our best
shot of the fabric is probably in this
image. The neck is round and wide, showing the undershirt's
It has a basic square torso, seamed just below the
belt to what seems to be a skirt of pointed box pleats. See
picture - the pleats are opening a bit. The fabric underneath
is satin* in a lighter burgundy color, with an emblem of embroidery.
We assume there are about seven to eight box pleats
- two center front, two to the side of that, two center back,
and two to the side of those, so that two of the pointed brocade
panels formed by the pleats are directly at the side. The panel
hems are rounded, the underlay hems slightly longer, with a
The sleeves are two-part - an upper piece that is
puffed, gathered and set in to the arm scye. From below the
elbow on, the second part of the sleeve is snug over the forearm,
but it also folds quite a bit. The upper part of the sleeve
does not appear to be gathered directly into the lower.
The running theory now is that the puff is a separate
sleeve. In some images, especially the (albeit blurry) exhibit
images, it seems that it is eased at the outer part of the arm,
gathered at the inner, into a one-or-two inch band of brocade.
The undersleeve, then, is perhaps stitched at the
arm scye. It's slit twice under the forearm, with the white
undershirt pulled through. From Cherie's exhibit notes, "The
split in the sleeve has tassels on it, at the point where the
split starts, where it joins in the middle, and where it ends
at the cuff."
We only see this in two places - at the neck, and
pulled through the slits at the forearm. Seems to be a lightweight
white cotton or linen. The fabric is gathered into the self-lined
mandarin collar, and closed up the center front with at least
two (probably extends all the way down the torso) gold hooks-and-eyes,
or other small form of attachment.
The cloak is long and full, the main body of the
cloak seems to be a rectangle. Probably a woven wool, in a rich
purple. The cloak extends at either end and wraps around the
neck, pleated three times with two to three inch pleats, set
into a seam on the right shoulder. The pleats seem to be are
stitched together on the left shoulder, so that the cloak drapes
in gentle pleats from shoulder to shoulder, falling down the
back on his right, and slightly to the front on his left.
One can almost make out the line of stitching on
his left shoulder in this
A purple button (probably false) sits on each pleat
on the seam at the right shoulder. The buttons have a wide swirl
pattern, but are covered in fabric.*
We don't have any extreme detailed images, but there
is a line of gold on the edge of the fabric, so either it's
edged in a fine delicate gold piping or braid, or perhaps a
small zig-zag stitch bordering the edge.
leaf embroidery extends down both sides, probably 18-20
leaf couples from right shoulder, across, and to the ground.
The edges of the cloak itself are scalloped.
The gold cloak lining is woven.* We can see the center
back seam in some of the "leaping" images.
He wears knee-high boots and purple hose, and on
his head his gold crown, also worn with his coronation
outfit. His brown belt is edged in gold. See Cherie's sketch
of the belt buckle here.
Cherie's FIDM Exhibit Notes
- The sleeves are split like Susan's dress with
the white undershirt showing through.
- The buttons on the cloak are decorated with a
swirl pattern, similar to this.
The center circle is smaller and is not a rhinestone. The
swirls are wider. They appeared to be made of purple fabric.
- The split in the sleeve has tassels on it, at
the point where the split starts, where it joins in the middle,
and where it ends at the cuff.
- The cloak is lined in a gold color. The lining
is woven. The cloak is pleated at the shoulder, then sewn
together into a seam. There are buttons at the pleats.
- The design on the tunic is a rose/floral brocade
pattern. The white collar is not a separate piece, it belongs
to the undershirt which shows at the sleeves. The under-pleats
are made of a different fabric from the rest of the tunic.
They are satin and embroidered with a gold design that I sketched
There may be a clasp holding the collar together at the top.
I was too short to see clearly, but I'm pretty sure there
was something there.
Sketches by Cherie:
Philo's Early Sketch